Yesterday I went surfing for the second time with Landon, Jordan, Michelle, and Sana. We all woke up within the hours of 2a.m. and 3a.m. so we could leave early enough to have ALL day to surf, because it was a five and half hour drive.
First stop: Rio Mar (where I surfed the first time-last week)
It was purely a stop to see the ocean crashing it’s waves upon the black sand, under the blanket of stars. There were so many stars that I hadn’t seen before; dotting the sky with their miraculous impression. The sound of the ocean is one of my favorites, for sure.
Second stop: the shores of Hotel El Sitio.
This place had waves ranging from beginner to pro; 4 foot to 30 foot. There was such diversity that it called in all sorts of surfers, including one whom we met at Rio Mar last week.
We headed down the beach to the smaller; beginner waves. A palm tree acted as our shelter from the sun and a shaded spot for our cooler; which held peanut butter & jelly pancake sandwiches for lunch.
After applying sunscreen (spf 70–I thought I might turn albino, but later found out that Panama just burns me harshly no matter the sunscreen application) we all headed out to the ocean to catch some waves. I began and caught the first great wave! There is something about the rush of all the power under you that just motivates you to keep surfing more.
I tried my best to get up each time, but of course, because I’m a beginner, I fell off many times. In the middle of the day, I got to the point where so much salt was burning my eyes that I couldn’t see, especially with the waves still crashing on me.
There came some points where I was able to be alone on the sandy shore, under the palm tree, listening to the roars of the ocean. It was calming yet invigorating to listen to the shake of palm trees, crash of waves, and call of geckos. I was able to have some God-Sarah time, where I just sat and thanked God for the experience. I had gone through so much change recently, so I finally realized, while basking in God’s greatness, that He is in control and I am here for His purposes and I need to just take His instruction and stop worrying and start trusting. There’s that word again-TRUST. I struggle so much with God on that subject. I can so easily trust people and yet my Creator and perfect Lord has a roller-coaster…I’m SO ridiculous sometimes.
The adventures kept going as I became Landon’s photographer with the waterproof camera. I captured his moments and enjoyed the time to swim in the ocean. At one point, I was able to be even MORE in awe of Christ and enjoy this day even MORE, because it began to pour. OH! the rush of the salty, warm, waves mixed with the dripping of cold, fresh, rain. It was fantastic!
I hope to never forget that day. I can say I am a surfer. I am horrible, but I have stood up and rode a wave until I felt like jumping off. I surfed atop the roaring beast and felt it’s power propelling me.
Landon, Jordan, and I decided to trek across the horribly rocky part of the ocean to an extremely deciduous island. There were gigantic waves on the east side, smashing against rocks, creating a melody of its own.
These colorful crabs roamed the deep brown dirt and bright green foliage.
We climbed up the island to see the view of the unending ocean, it was quite the trek, but I felt accomplished. My feet got horribly bruised and scraped, but now they match my legs.
After we got back from the island we met the girls (who had been at the surf shack for hours, chillin’) at the car and Michelle, Landon, and I ate at the restaurant. I had Yucca Fritas (yucca root fries) and Patacones (plantains fried) they were both SO yummy! We watched the surfers hang out on the beach and the waves get larger and larger as they began hitting up to 25 feet. A group began playing their acoustic guitars (I saw the prettiest one ever, it had a sunset on the front and the ocean scene on the back) along with a bongo and a harmonica. It was an unforgettable experience.
The almost 24 hour day was one of the best days of my life-the continuous adventures, accomplishments, and laughter filled the day and kept it immensely enjoyable.